Beffiting its place in history as the first wine bar in the country, this historic establishment maintains a dusty, pre-gourmand air. The old-school atmosphere evokes a British pub, with high-backed booths, out-of-fashion wallpaper and dark wood througout. The mostly after-work crowd, comfy in jeans and T-shirts, hang by the bar or luxuriates in plush leather booths. Friendly bartenders can give knowledgeable recommendations on request.

The limited wine list offers a mostly California selection of well-known producers. Even amateur wine lovers will recognize producers like Beaulieu Vineyards and Ravenswood from supermarket shelves. An occassional Bordeaux or Chilean red can be found on the list, but it's unlikely for one to discover any unknown vintages from the rather limited selection. Nevertheless, the casual pub-like atmosphere and affordable prices bridge the gap between unpretentious dive and intimidating wine bar.